Imagine a tree that looks as if covered with snow as May turns into June. By September, pendant red fruits as bright as Christmas ornaments presage the holiday season. In autumn it delivers New England chromatic magic, holding deep reddish-purple leaves until about Thanksgiving. Typically growing only about twenty-five feet tall, such aesthetic delights have made it widely planted as an ornamental. But beauty is not its only virtue. It’s a tree you can taste.