Scores of women in long dresses, some grasping parasols, and men in derby hats and straw boaters, a few with lit cigars, stroll leisurely along the decks and promenades surrounding the boxy, three story, thirty room hotel. Atop Mount Nonotuck they’re closer to heaven and fresh breezes escaping August’s heat. Far below is a farm-patched valley where the lazy Connecticut winds and sparkles. Across the river, the bright white Prospect House crowns Mount Holyoke, beyond which are the blue-hued ridgeline knobs known as the Seven Sisters.
Perhaps after a round of croquet the women will retire to the ladies parlor and the men try their skill at billiards or the shooting range. Before dinner in the elegant dining room, couples might take in the proprietor’s menagerie of birds and reptiles, the bear in the basement. But the lure of beef ribs, spring lamb, new potatoes, peas and beets might merit an early meal, a peek at Northampton by telescope, and a moonlit mosey to the pavilion.
A two minute detour from the trail, and I’m well over a century too late. At the Eyrie House’s proud perch is a rusting tower caged by a chain link fence languishing among weedy trees. It’s an uneven, lumpy area of basalt outcrops sloping in every direction. Lost in the woods is a faded puzzle of fieldstone foundations and retaining wall remnants, and broad leveled paths that go nowhere. I’m told that a few contorted lilac bushes still grow among the oaks, and that a boot heel divot might reveal broken oyster shells from long ago feasts.
fading stone remnants
elegance among the clouds
ghosts still promenade

(Haibun is a marriage of prose and haiku. It was first practiced by seventeenth-century Japanese poet Matsuo Basho who perfected the form in a journal he kept on a trip to the remote regions of northern Japan. Gary Snyder, James Merrill, and Jack Kerouac are among American interpreters of the genre. Haibun best expresses the spirit of the New England Trail because it combines clear-eyed prose descriptions of people, objects and places along with poetry that awakens the imagination.)
The New England National Scenic Trail, a unit of the National Park Service, runs 215 miles from Guilford, Connecticut to the Massachusetts/ New Hampshire border. The trail is maintained by volunteers of the Connecticut Forest & Park Association in Connecticut and the Appalachian Mountain Club in Massachusetts. For more go to https://newenglandtrail.org/