Almost two miles from Farley, I descend a side trail to where the land levels alongside elephantine cliffs rising several stories. It’s a grand jumble of uneven rocky fractures, openings and passages. Under a canopy of red oak, maple and black birch I climb a few rough stone steps and stand in the mouth of a large cave where hermit John Smith spent the last decades of the nineteenth century. Below are a series of low stone walls, half covered in leaves and sticks where the hermit grew wildflowers, ferns, onions, corn and potatoes in a garden that drew visitors in droves. A few daylilies trumpet orange in the dense greenery.
A light breeze speaks in the tree canopy, and I almost hear the lilting Scottish brogue of the long bearded recluse. Humbly born, unlucky in love, an actor for a time, he entertained nobility for years as a paid hermit on great British estates. Coming to America, he lived by gathering nuts and berries, making wreathes and knitting socks before finding “the cave like heaven below.” Without the shade of so many trees, the hilly river valley view was “majestic” and his flowers and crops thrived. He welcomed hundreds of tourists to his slice of solitude, regaling them with stories of his native Highlands and the London stage. He promoted to newspapers and sold accounts of his life.
Just a craggy, anonymous wall of rock for millennia, but the hermit found his home and transformed it by tectonic force of personality, building it tale by tale into a castle. In the creased and jagged rock face I imagine crenellations, spires and battlements.
a man spun stories
castle cliffs, castle in air
we need to believe
(Haibun is a marriage of prose and haiku. It was first practiced by seventeenth-century Japanese poet Matsuo Basho who perfected the form in a journal he kept on a trip to the remote regions of northern Japan. Gary Snyder, James Merrill, and Jack Kerouac are among American interpreters of the genre. Haibun best expresses the spirit of the New England Trail because it combines clear-eyed prose descriptions of people, objects and places along with poetry that awakens the imagination.)
The New England National Scenic Trail, a unit of the National Park Service, runs 215 miles from Guilford, Connecticut to the Massachusetts/ New Hampshire border. The trail is maintained by volunteers of the Connecticut Forest & Park Association in Connecticut and the Appalachian Mountain Club in Massachusetts. For more go to https://newenglandtrail.org/