A Pressing Discovery
At noon on January 20, 2021, as President-elect Biden takes the oath of office, I will mark the moment with a few slices of locally sourced cheese as I watch the televised ceremony. It’s not just that the commander-in-chief might be called “the big cheese,” that politics is a cheesy business, or that frequently photographed new presidents tend to smile as if saying the obligatory word as their image is snapped. Rather, my snack choice is less about symbolism than homage to historical precedent. Ever since the election of Thomas Jefferson in 1802, few foods have received such chief executive notoriety.
I stumbled on this confluence of cheddar and history while on a summer trip to the Berkshires of Massachusetts that featured visits to contemporary art museum MASS MoCA in North Adams and a baseball game at Pittsfield’s venerable Waconah Park. Traveling north on Route 8, my wife Mary and I pulled into the small community of Cheshire in hopes of finding a cup of coffee. Across from the post office on a sliver of grass at the corner of Church and School Streets an unusual monument caught my eye. I couldn’t resist. With a quick turn of the wheel, I abruptly pulled over.
Shaded beneath maples and flanked by a couple park benches was what looked like a large, old fashioned hand-turned cider press. Somewhat boxy and fabricated of weathered concrete, what it lacked in elegance and beauty it made up for in unusual and curious materials and design. Affixed to the front was a bronze plaque bearing a bas relief of a stern gentlemen attired in the fashion of the early nineteenth century. Below was an inscription rendered a bit difficult to read from blue-green drips of corrosion. The text explained that the monument, placed in 1940 by the Sons of the American Revolution, was in the form of a cheese press.
The plaque depicted Elder John Leland, described as an “eloquent preacher, beloved pastor, and influential patriot” who “despite opposition of every other pulpit in Massachusetts, carried every vote in Cheshire” for Thomas Jefferson. On New Year’s Day 1802, in the East Room of the White House where foreign diplomats, members of the supreme court, and congressmen had gathered, Leland presented the new president with “the Big Cheshire Cheese weighing 1,255 lbs.”